Travels with a Michelin-Star

The star is the result of loving what Chef Martinez makes, loving what he does, and paying attention to the little details others may have noted as "perfectionism." Although “it is difficult for a restaurant to receive back-to-back Michelin stars,” he proffers when asked about the work and dedication required to gain such an accolade, Chef Martinez reveals that El Club Allard will this year pitch for a second.

“The quality of the kitchen is there, but we need to work on explaining our ethos — the ideas and histories behind the dishes. We want people to know that when you sit down and eat, you are not only eating, you are eating history and culture.”

Discussing the relationship between travel and food, the chef says the two are inextricably linked as both involve “learning other points of view.”

“I have traveled a lot around Asia. I lived in Indonesia, but have cooked in Hong Kong, China, Bali, and Vietnam, as well as in other places doing pop-ups, stuff like that, so I have learned about Asian produce and techniques, which I use a lot in my kitchen.”

Having worked with chefs from Japan, Chef Martinez, who has only been cooking for the past decade, has introduced these influences into his cooking at El Club Allard, which focuses primarily on Basque cuisine.

“I do a lot of crossover between Basque and Japanese cuisine. The Japanese’s respect for nature and what it offers is very similar to ours, but the result is different. There is room for growth in the fusion of these cuisines.”

“For example, we use miso and sake in some of our dishes, as well as Japanese techniques. We also do dumplings, which are Chinese, and ramen, which we call anti-ramen because unlike traditional ramen, which has a lot of texture, ours is a consommé.”

A glance through the venue’s menu reveals this marriage: “Iberian Pork Shoulder, Kiwi, Mustard Miso; Mushrooms’ Garum, Rubia Gallega, Wakame; Dim Sum, Txangurro Donostiarra Style; and Seabass and Its Tail Cured, Kombu, Ajilimojili, Crapaudine Puree and Beurre Blanc.”

Commenting on how he and Chef Martín Berasategui, who is at the helm at El Club Allard and has 12 Michelin stars behind him, have so quickly turned around a restaurant that was struck down by the pandemic, he says: “It is down to our very talented team and getting the best out of nature, which we express to our local producers to get the best out of them. We push them to the edge, like pushing an artichoke to the edge of a cliff.”

Leading us from the precipice of new ideas to northern Spain, he says this is the place to which he would direct travelers for the perfect food and wine tour of the country because the region places a serious focus on nature’s bounty and animal husbandry.

Food culture in the Basque region often has a communal aspect that turns an entire meal into a social gathering as people enjoy the variety of flavors. Rating Hong Kong as one of Chef Martinez’s favorite food destinations makes sense considering how the city similarly values social meals outside of the home, with diners collectively enjoying the delicious aromas, textures, and flavors.

Prior to joining El Club Allard, Chef Martinez had his own restaurant in the Basque region, but circumstances were such that it had to close. He then settled in Madrid because of the opportunities the city presents. “I had my own restaurant in La Rioja two years ago, but I did not have money. It was a small village restaurant and bar called Taberna de Ollauri that I wanted to turn into a gastronomic destination, but the venue was very old and everything was breaking, so we had to close. I then chose to come to Madrid,” says the man who describes himself as having been a "bad student."

“I tried to study engineering and worked at a port, but I wasn’t good at mathematics. In the kitchen, I can be myself. I need activity and creativity. I also like to work with nature. It’s a good opportunity to influence society.”

Regarding the future and whether he will embark on a less-challenging culinary adventure if El Club Allard won a second or third Michelin star, the chef, says: “I always feel I have to start from zero, whether I have one star or if I were to get a second star. But I think I would like to evolve in a different space, maybe work in a development kitchen, then five years later have my own restaurant, which takes a lot of energy because you are dealing with problems every day. I would also like to learn more about the foods of many other places, like Argentina, Peru, Mexico, and South Korea, even central Africa.”

When he hangs up his apron, Chef Martinez, who was born in Galicia, Spain, lived in San Sebastian from the age of four, and studied at a Basque culinary school, exercises, plays the guitar, and spends time with friends.

“I am trying to build a band here, an Indie band like Radiohead because I like music a lot. I play guitar and that takes a lot of time, like cooking. I also love reading, not only about food, but about psychology, science, and history.”

Mathematics might not be his strongest subject, but Chef Martinez, who “never eats at home on his days off unless he has friends or family over,” knows there are “many, many, many restaurants in Madrid” to satisfy him when he shelves his knives, and that it will take “two or three years to know them all”, but he is up for the challenge.

Zicasso is a leading luxury travel company that has been providing life-enriching experiences for discerning travelers since 2008. Our destination specialists possess unsurpassed local knowledge, providing handcrafted, personalized trips that offer unique access to distinctive experiences tailored to your interests, such as culinary, historical, cultural, and more.

We believe meaningful travel creates a more connected humanity, and sharing the world’s delights with one another is one of the best ways to cultivate a meaningful global community.

Learning about the food of other cultures, whether by visiting a restaurant, attending a cooking class, or sampling street food in a cosmopolitan city, is among the many experiences you can have with Zicasso.

With a culinary tour personalized to your preferences, we can put El Club Allard and Chef Martinez on your radar as you tick off the cuisines on your travel wishlist.

For further travel and culinary inspiration, see our Spain tours and vacations or explore our Spain travel guide.